The
Black Sea Coast Resorts
Until
you reach the Romanian Black sea resorts, first you have to cross
a vast field with miles and miles of maize, sunflower, wheat or
other crops. Beyond the Danube, crossing the 1.7 km-long Cernavoda
Bridge, Europe`s largest when built by Anghel Saligny in 1895,
you step into Dobrogea, a region caught between the Danube and
the Black Sea - a peaceful fertile land.
There are things
that attract your attention once you are near Cernavoda nuclear
power station, the only one existing in Romania (one module of
five completed).
The Main Danube
flow is heading northwards from Cernavoda except for a branch
which turns east to the Black Sea. The completed Danube Canal
cut across Dobrogea from Cernavoda just to south of Constanta
at Agigea, shortening considerably the distance from the Danube`s
inland harbours to the sea for the sea-going vessels. Thus the
difficulties of navigating through the Delta are avoided.
Nevertheless one
must not overlook the terrible ordeal the Romanians had been put
through during the 50`s by the Communist party organs. Hundreds
of thousands of innocent dissentiant people, acused of being against
Soviet expansion, were deported and forced to dig out millions
of tonnes of hard rough soil with their bear hands. They were
treated like animals, lived unbearable conditions, just for the
construction of a huge canal nowadays proven unuseful.
Going deeper inland,
Dobrogea reveals several good wine-producing regions, such as
Murfatlar which is a favourite excursion destination with seaside
holidaymakers, mainly because of sampling its fine wines along
with a good dinner and because they might leave with a doze as
a souvenir. Murfatlar wines are indeed good, with plenty of body
and a mass of international awards from past years.
Much nearby countryside
is also pleasant (Fântâna Murfatlar Nature Reserve - wooded slopes
of limestone hills). The village of Basarabi, which forms part
of Murfatlar, containa strange remains. Some time ago it was discovered
that 3 small Christian churches had been cut into a limestone
hill. Inscriptions, pottery, mural paintings and drawings were
found. While these items suggested a 10th century date, there
were also indications that the earliest of the churches might
go back to Roman times, long before the 9th century.
CONSTANTA
is
a harbour and industrial city (the 5th largest harbour in Europe).
It has agreat history that goes back to the ancient Greek legends.
It was connected with Jason`s and his Argonauts` search for the
Golden Fleece and with the story of Medea.
It became famous
down to our own days as the place the great Roman Poet Ovid (Ovidius
Publius Naso) was banished to, by the Emperor Augustus, in AD
9. Here he wrote his Tristia (Sorrows) and Epistulae ex Ponto
(Letters from the Black Sea).
Then Tomis came
under the Byzantium`s rule, the Genoese moved inthe town for a
century and after the fall of Constantinople, it was taken over
by the Turks until 1878. As a result of all these you can see
in Constanta the statue of the poet Ovid, the remainsof a Roman
settlement with its magnificent mosaic pavement from the 3rd century,
a mosque and an Orthodox cathedral and the Genoese lighthouse,
all in the same area between the commercial harbour and the yacht
harbour.
Other interesting
things like aquarium displaying 4500 species from the Black Sea,
the Danube and Romania`s lake, facing the modern Casino, built
in the early years of this century, which looks out onto the sea,
are worth a quick visit.
COSTINESTI
has
been developed as Romania`s youth holiday centre. Some of the
events form part of the entertainment and fun, Costinesti is well
known for: "The Young Actors` Show", "The Costinesti Film Festival",
"The Sea Celebration Days", "The Jazz Festival" and so on.
EFORIE - nord
lies
14 km south of Constanta and is half resort and half health spa,
second largest on the Black Sea coast. Apart from a considerable
number of normal hotels, restaurants, bars, discos, open-air cinemas
and a fine large park, it boasts also a vast artificial seawater
lake together with several sanatoria handling various ailments.
It has a capacity of 19,000 shared by 42 hotels, 24 villas, 2
campsites. The most notable hotels sprung on Eforie Nord`s beach
are Steaua de Mare, Meduza, Delfinul, Europa, Traian, Minerva,
Venus and so on. You could enjoy a tasty meal at Vraja Marii Restaurant,
at Perla Marii, Pescarus or Rapsodia Restaurants as well. 30 ha
of dense forest enhance the beauty of the seacliff and its waterfront.
EFORIE - sud
is
some 4 km away from Eforie Nord, lying on Lake Techirghiol`s shore.
The lake was as a matter of fact a sea gulf and thanks to evaporation
its water is six times as saline as the sea and its mud is credited
with many healing properties. Eforie Sud could accommodate 15,000
tourists in 41 hotels, several villas and 4 campsites. Among these
Gloria, Excelsior, Riviera, Capitol, Ancora, Flamingo or Cosmos
are worth mentioning.
MAMAIA
is
Romania`s main sea resort, a modern settlement, with some 60 hotels,
14 villlas additional restaurants, shops, very attractively planted
gardens, swimming pools, nightclubs and discos, an open-air theatre
- the Mamaia Pop Music Festival is held here yearly and everything
else summer visitors can possible need - all laid out on a sandbar
some 15 km long, but only 150 - 400 m wide, separating the sea
from a sweetwater lagoon called Siutghiol. Full use is made of
Lake Siutghiol for watersports of every sort (canoeing, sailing,
water-skiing, board sailing and so on. The beach on the seaward
side, with fine shell-sand slopes gently into the sea. The most
prestigious hotels in Mamaia with a wide range of facilities are
the 3 star hotels: Ambasador, Albatros, Alcor, Vega, Amiral, Bucuresti,
Majestic and a greater number of 2 star hotels such as: Sulina,
Ovidiu, Pelican, Perla and so on.
NEPTUN - OLIMP
is
a well-developed resort though technically consists of 2 resorts
bound together. A number of hotels in Olimp are very appreciated
for their location, overlooking the sea (Panoramic, Amfiteatru
and Belvedere Hotels) and some of Neptun`s for the shade that
wooded land provides and for its relatively peaceful atmosphere
(Galati, Arad, Slatina and so on). There are plenty of good restaurants
such as "Calul Balan" or "Popasul Caprioarelor" - the latter amidst
Comorova forest, where you could taste some of the Romanian traditional
cuisine and enjoy a folk show. The Albatros and Insula Restaurants
serve outstanding fish dishes - the latter is built on the Lake
Neptun I`s island. Neptun possesses a children`s recreation park
called Prichindel, a sports ground and watersports facilities
on its lakes. Good watersports facilities abound.
JUPITER
can
host over 8,500 tourists in hotels like Capitol, Cometa and Meteor
just next to the beach and in a campsite called "Zodiac". The
"Paradise" Bar is one of the most visited in Jupiter and "Catunul"
Restaurant and disco-bar, built in traditional architectural style
teems with tourists every night.
VENUS
has
got 11,000 places available in 25 modern hotels bearing maiden
names (Anca, Irina, Dana, Sanda, Rodica, Veronica) known for the
originally architectural style of their interiors.
SATURN
is
the last of this string of modern resorts. It gives another 13,000
accommodation places to the Black Sea Coast resorts` capacity
in 3 or 4 storeyed hotels (Cleopatra, Narcisa, Semiramis, Aida,
Cupidon).
MANGALIA
first
appears in the history as the ancient Greek trading station Callatis.
It kept that name under the Romans and the Byzantines, but became
Pangalia when taken over by the Genoese in the 13th century. Mangalia
is fundamentally a small commercial harbour. It has a pleasant
wide beach and several acceptable hotels as well as a number of
sanatoria and treatment centres. You can see remains of the old
citadels walls, uncovered in 1960 just beside the small " Callatis"
archaeological museum. The Esmahan Sultan mosque beside it dates
from 1590. You`ll find good accommodation provided by the Mangalia
Hotel including a well equipped sanatorium, Astra, Orion, Zenit
Hotels nearby Mangalia wide beach.
CAP AURORA
lies south of Neptun with large hotels of unusual design above the cape`s tip bearing names of gems (Cristal, Agat, Rubin, Safir, Diamant, Opal, Granat, Onix).
Before you reach
the Bulgarian frontier, there are two tiny fishermen`s villages
as well as ideal places for camping directly on the beach.
The Limanu village
lies between the two of them deeper inland beside a sweetwater
lake. It is some of the typical traditional least visited fishermen`s
settlement, though the Limanu Cave would have drawn a loyal following
if its name had been more familiar to the seaside visitors. It
was measured several times before the specialists came to the
conclusion that the other end of it is underground the Bulgarian
territory. People said the cave was known since the ancient times
when an underground church was digged out observing all the details
of a church`s interior. The locals claimed that many people were
trapped inside and could not find their way back due to the huge
maze and tangle of galleries. Each gallery branches in several
directions. During the Communist period the cave was the place
where smuglars coming from Bulgaria hid their goods.
The region north
to Mamaia contains some of Romania`s least known spots. Roughly
60 km from Mamaia the ruins of Histria lie next to village of
Istria. It was founded by Greeks from Miletus in the 7th century
BC. The most notable items include a 5th century BC temple of
Aphrodite, houses, baths and temples up to the 1st century, defensive
walls and towers, Roman baths, a large basilica in the central
square, shops, pottery, inscriptions and mosaics built by the
Romans. For many centuries Histria looked out from its promontory
over open sea. But all the approaches to its harbour were silted
up by sand spilled out by the Danube into the Black Sea. Today
a long sandbar has formed a series of lagoons northward along
the coast. They`ve been given the names of Lakes Sinoe, Smeica,
Golovita and vast Razelm. It`s a lonely area but it`s rich in
fish. The region`s chief fish-handling centre is just outside
Unirea, formerly Jurilovca, one of the main settlements inhabited
by Lipovani, descendents of heretic refugees from Russian church
persecution in the late 18th century.
If you choose
to travel to the Black Sea Coast taking the southern route via
Călărasi, you`ll have to cross the Danube at this point on ferries
or more exactly a flat pontoon that you can drive you car straight
onto. Passing through Calaras i many sites will stir your interest
as follows: the town main park, the swimming-pools located on
either sides of the Danube.
Once you`ve reached
the Danube`s crossing point, the incredible beautiful surroundings
leave you enchanted. The Borcea Island hugged by the Danube`s
2 arms is famous for its wilderness - a dark poplar forest sometimes
flooded by the Danube`s waters is a heavenly spot for camping
and fishing. Nearby, a smaller island was once famous during the
11th century as a trading centre. This island is called "Păcuiul
lui Soare" as well as the Byzantine fortress built in AD 971.
The southern part
of Dobrogea looks very much like a steppe. If you look round you`ll
see miles and miles of rough, dry land eventually toiled by peasants
if you have the chance of seeing one.
However, the silhouette
of a construction is rising from the stretched flat land. It`s
the Tropaeum Trajani (Trajan`s Victory Trophy) near the village
of Adamclisi. It was built in AD 109 to celebrate the Roman Emperor
Trajan`s victory over the Dacians. Its main feature is a series
of 54 bas-reliefs consisting of six groups of nine scenes each,
the Emperor himself appearing in every group.
If you`re driving
in the Dobrogea`s northern parts either on your way to the Black
Sea resorts or to the Danube Delta, you may like to see the Orthodox
Monasteries of Cocos (built in 1833 by the monks coming from Mount
Athos Monastery), of Celic Dere (completed in 1932, it has a beautiful
collection of church possessions) by following the road from Tulcea
to Braila. This will also give you the chance to see the recently
discovered underground 4th century church at Niculitel, called
the "Martyricon" (the relics of 4 saint-martyrs put to an ordeal
in AD 396, were found inside) or the 18th century mosque at Măcin.
The Danube crossing
at Galati and Braila are also made on ferries. You can sail between
Tulcea and Galati and on to Braila by speed boat. You`ll find
this journey fascinating and relaxing through a lush green countryside.
Galati and Braila are both ancient settlements and both Danube
ports. At first sight neither town is specially attractive, though
both have spots worth seeing.
In 1944 when Romanian
armies forced a Nazi armies` withdrawal, the Germans blew up the
Galati harbour, shipyards, factoires, warehouses and several hundred
houses. Despite that, a number of old churches and other fine
buildings still exist. They include the 16th century Saint Precista
fortified church (the oldest in town, built in 1647), the Mavromolu
Church (built in 1857), the Archbishopic Cathedral and so on.
The Braila`s main
Orthodox church is a former 17th century mosque, converted in
1829, after the Turks` withdrawal. There ia also a Greek church,
whose building began in 1862. Remains of the once important Turkish
fort still exist.
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