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wooden churches of Maramures next
The
Maramures proper in many ways is Romania`s remotest corner. Lying
in the country`s extreme northwest, it`s tucked away behind mountains
that guard it on its southern, northern and eastern sides. The
Maramures and Oas are renowned for the beauty of their magnificent
forests and their mountains. And their inhabitants for centuries
past have been highly skilled woodworkers.
You`ll
see small houses differently shaped and often with magnificently-carved
gateways. More woodcarvings may decorate the houses` exteriors.
Here, too, needless to say, you`ll see many of the all-wooden
small churches with tall wooden spires. You may also come on country
women weaving superb rugs and hangings and other fabrics on handlooms,
willing to sell them to you.
Baia
Mare, today the Maramures `s county town, is the starting
point of our trip. Although it`s an ancient mining settlement
the town today is mostly attractive with its newer parts to the
south. Traces of the ancient fortifications which have survived
include the Mint Tower (Bastionul Monetariei), down beside the
River Sasar and the Butcher`s Tower as well. The 15th cenntury
Stephen Tower (Turnul lui Stefan) was also once part of the town`s
fortifications. The baroque Sfânta Treime (Holy Trinity) Cathedral,
built by Jesuits in 1720, stands beside it.
The
surroundings region is very well worth exploring. The Firiza storage
lake lies only 11 km away.
Baia
Sprie is basically a small mining town, 10 km away from
Baia Mare. A 14th century Catholic church was paid for, by forced
contributions from the miners.
The
Izvoarele (The Springs) spa is associated with a famous
local outlaw, Grigore Pintea, as it contains Izvorul lui Pintea
(Pintea`s spring). Known to everyone as Pintea Viteazu (Pintea
the Brave) he was bravely fighting oppressive foreign occupying
forces. He was killed during the 1703-11 anti-Habsburg rising.
In snowy winter people come to ski in this spa.
The
road we are driving leads us through magnificently-forested
mountain slopes. At the top of the Gutin Pass, we reach a very
attractive stopping-place, with a car park and restaurant. It`s
the starting-point for a popular footpath, not easy going, up
to the Creasta Cocosului (Cock`s Crest) geological reserve in
the Gutin Mountains.
The
descend to Desesti is very steep. Desesti, lying
on Mara valley, is famous for its unforgettable winter holidays.
It has an all-wooden church, as have several villages east of
it. Hărnicesti, Sat Sugatag, Vadu
Izei have some specially striking carved gateways and
are famous for their colourful local costumes. Vadu Izei
(Iza Ford) is the point of the two roads` junction.
One
starting northward to Sighetu Marmatiei and the
other eastward upstream Iza Valley. We choose the former to reach
Sighetu Marmatiei, Maramures depression`s main centre, Romania`s
most northerly town. Its Maramures ean Museum illustrates all
the region`s wealth of handwork - not only every sort of woodcarving,
but also carpets, icons painted on glass, masks, clothing and
household objects such as the carved distaff still used in hand
spinning. The town`s main appeal however lies in its position
at the junction of the Rivers Tisa, Iza and Ronis oara at the
foot of the Gutin Mountains.
Oncesti
lies only 11 km from Sighetu Marmatiei. The wooden church dates
from 1795. Traces of a Dacian settlement have been found here.
Bârsana
boasts a particularly lovely highly-steepled wooden church, decorated
with paintings on canvas attached to its inner walls. The church
is believed to have been built in 1390 and moved to its present
hilltop position early in the 18th century.
Strâmtura
(Tartars` Passage) commemorates a ferocious battle against Tartar
invaders in 1717. As well as the other described vilages, Rozavlea
boasts a church made - unusually - of fir-tree truncks. It dates
from 1717.
Just
before entering Bogdan Voda village, a turning on our right takes
us to Ieud, which has two of the most famous of
all this region`s wooden churches. One, up on the hill, is believed
to date from 1364, which would make it the oldest of all the buildings
of this type. Paintings on canvas by local artists of the 15th
and 16th centuries are attached to the interior walls, being of
extremely value.
Going
back to the main road, we reach Bogdan Voda, formerly
known as Cuhea. The name was changed because the village is thought
to have been the birthpace of Bogdan I, the first ruler of Moldavia.
Bodan Voda`s wooden church dates from 1722.
Leaving
behind Dragomiresti, Sălistea de Sus
and Săcel we approach Moisei, which looks modern,
having been rebuilt in 1944 after the Nazis had shot 30 people
in one house and set fire to the whole village.
Borsa.
The region`s occupations are divided mainly between mining and
agriculture, but there`s a "tourist complex", which includes 3
hotels, tourist chalets, a campsite and ski runs. To the south
you can follow a footpath marked by a blue strip to the Pietrosu
Mare Nature Reserve, on the slopes of 2305 m high Mount Pietrosu
in the Rodna Massif.
We
are returning to Miosei where the road that branches off to the
right leads us downstream River Viseu back to Sighetu Marmatiei.
Leaving Sighetu Marmatiei by the road running west, we arrive
after 18 km at the village of Săpânta, whose cemetery
has become famous for its painted headboards. Unlike the epitaphs
usually put on graves, these are colourful in both senses of the
word and full of humour. They`re the work of one man, Ioan Stan
Patras. A Frenchman once called it "the Merry Graveyard".
We
can continue past Sapânta through very lovely scenery to Negresti-Oas,
where there is another small handicrafts museum.
No
one will ever forget the folk costumes local people wear
during the celebration days of Christmas and New Year time, Saint
George`s Day, Tânjaua of Hoteni (the 1st man set out to ploughing
is celebrated), the first Sunday of May brings Sâmbra Oilor celebration
day, when milk sheep are separated from the barren ones. It`s
the time the sheep flocks went up to the mountains.
"The Wooden Churches of Maramures" package tour
By
far the best way of saving time, money and seeing something is
to buy a "fly and drive" package tour. The Tarom fights
link Bucharest Baneasa airport with Tautii Magheraus local airport,
some 20 km away from Baia Mare.
However, we can also organize coach tours to Maramures, thus combined
with the other packages included in our offer.
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